Puglia Travel Guide
Katie Dean, July 10 2019
If you follow along with KDJ on Instagram you know that I was recently on a Summer Holiday in Europe with my husband (where we ate all the pasta... all the croissants... and just all the things!).
We traveled to Puglia, Rome, Amalfi Coast, Paris and London—it was so much fun but definitely a whirlwind. Que the vacay after our vacay, ha! Because there is just too much to try and fit into one post, I'll be breaking up the travel blog posts to cover each place.
So first up, I'll be taking you to Puglia!
Not sure where that is? Yea, I had no idea either when Jon first mentioned it to me. To fill you in: Puglia is the Southern region of Italy that forms the 'heel' of the boot (pictured below is the heel of the boot).
*map found via Pinterest
Puglia is known for being authentically Italian, not transformed yet to be as touristy and commercialized as other parts of Italy. And also for their whitewashed towns on top of hills, endless fields of olive trees, miles of beautiful rocky coastline and trulli -- historical cone-shaped huts made of stone (which we stayed in!).
We spent 3 nights in Puglia at a cozy Bed and Breakfast called Trullo Sant'Angelo tucked away in, of course, lots of olive trees. Trullo Sant'Angelo is more centrally located which allows you to be only 20-45 minutes away from a lot of other cute towns. So if you're looking to explore I highly recommend it.
Pictured below is a snapshot of our daily breakfasts, the sweetest pups that keep you company throughout your stay and the amazing trulli that we stayed in. FYI renting a car (or scooter if you're adventurous) is a must when staying in Puglia unless you will literally be staying at your BnB / hotel the entire time.
Our top 5 recommendations for Puglia based on what we enjoyed the most:
1. Dinner in a cave in Ostuni at Osteria Del Tempo Perso.
2. Taking a little taxi around the town of Ostuni. They're surprisingly informative on the town's history and you see way more than you would if you just walked the city.
3. Pizza at Al Solito Posto in Ostuni.
4. Visiting the town of Polignano a Mare, strolling through the town, hanging on the (rocky) beach and eating lunch at a packed local spot called Pescaria.
5. Taking a trip to Borgo Egnazia to dine at their Michelin star restaurant Due Camini. This experience was truly phenomenal. Not only is Borgo Egnazia grand and beautiful like a castle, but the food and service was five star. The dining experience was like nothing we've ever experienced. Even though it was simply a table for two for me and Jon, we had an entire huge round table to ourselves (see pics below) that was decorated with something you'd see in a still life painting. Our dinner was a set 7-course menu but ended up being about 12 courses with all the additional complimentary side dishes that they bring out. And it was all wonderfully theatrical. Everything is thoughtfully planned out. For instance, when I opted to have tea for my drink of choice, they walked over a little trolley of botanicals that were held in glass fixtures and explained what each one was. They then had me select which ones I'd like for my tea and then proceeded to make me fresh tea by mashing and boiling the elements in front of me. It was so amazing!
A few tips if you're planning on going here for dinner:
- Book your reservation about 4-6 weeks in advance.
- Come hungry! Try and fast throughout the day to prepare for your feast.
- Arrive early and enjoy a stroll around the property, which is simply stunning.
In summary, Puglia is most definitely one of the most overlooked regions of Italy that is less developed and absolutely worth exploring. It's full of history you can touch and taste and, honestly, it looks nothing short of an enchanted land! As this sleeping beauty starts to wake up I highly recommend going if you can and voluntarily cast yourself under its spell.
Enjoy the pictures below that were captured during our trip!
Family portrait with one of the pups of Trullo Sant'angelo before we left for a day of exploring
Pictured below, our cave dinner at Osteria Del Tempo Perso in Ostuni
My husband, Jon, looking so handsome on the porch of a home in Ostuni
We loved our little taxi ride around the town of Ostuni -- our driver was really fun and he told us all about the history of the town
Al Solito Posto is the perfect lunch spot to have a fresh pizza and salad
Selfie with the Puka Shell Necklace before our road trip to Polignano a Mare (about 45 minutes South of our B&B)
The view from the furthest point of the town facing the rocky beach
(fun fact: Red Bull hosts a cliff diving competition in Polignano a Mare every year, we missed it by just a few days which in retrospect was best because Jon really wanted to do it, ha!)
Stopped at Pescaria, a local spot in Polignano a Mare that we had lunch at that was soooooo delish
Below are pics of the interior + exterior of Borgo Egnazia and a few from inside their restaurant Due Camini